"This isn't a tale of heroic feats.
It's about two lifes running parallel for a while,
with common aspirations and similar dreams." Ernesto Guevara de la Serna, 1952
Goodbye boys, life-long companions,
dear old-time gang.
The plan: 8000 kilometers in four months.
The method: improvisation.
We've got to prevent certain things in life...
The goal:
to explore a continent we had only known in books.
the motorcycle diaries
Good night, Granado.
The equipment: "The Mighty One",
an aged, leaky 1939 Norton 500.
The Pilot:
AIberto Granado,
chubby, 29, friend and biochemist,
self-proclaimed "wandering scientist".
Alberto's dream: to finish the journey on his 30th birthday.
Co-pilot: me, Ernesto Guevara de la Serna, "El Fuser",
- Is Ernesto really going? - No, Ernesto is staying.
Ernesto, will you take me with you? Let's go together!
Sorry Dad but the more you tell ...
You're only one semester away from becoming a doctor.
That can wait.
Medical student, specializing in leprosy
Here comes furious Serna!
...recreational rugby player
Nice shot, Fuser!
...and occasionally asthmatic.
Date of departure, January 4th.
The route: Buenos Aires, west to Patagonia and into Chile...
then north, 6000 meters up the
rugged spine of the Andes to Machu Picchu.
Then, the San Pablo Leper Colony in the Peruvian Amazon.
The final destination: the Guajira Peninsula in Venezuela.
We land on the Guajira Peninsula. The tip of this grand continent.
Bellies full of wine and two tropical beauties, hopefully sisters...
That beer's good, huh?
By January 4th you'll have finished your exams, right?
If you'd like, I'll agree to make a little detour, go by Miramar, see your little girlfriend.
- My girlfriend... - A couple of days.
Fuser, check out that guy over there.
Do you want to end up like that?
You don't wanna end up like that, Fuser.
All you want is to get laid in every country in South America.
In every town too, if we're lucky. Adds a little spice.
What we had in common:
our restlessness, our impassioned spirits,
and a love for the open road.
Come on Ernestito, we don't have all day.
- isn't this too much stuff? - Just enough. Norton 500, a real motorcycle.
Don't worry about your son, he'll be well taken care of.
Tough times are ahead.
To tell the truth, I've always dreamt of doing something like this.
I confess that if I were a few years younger
I'd climb on that motorcycle with you. Imagine I'm doing it for both of us.
Ten years planning this trip, Uncle.
You were a kid... Meanwhile, I trust you.
So, when's the revolution coming?
Here? In about a century.
We gotta learn from the Russians.
- Leaving already? - Yes. I'm off.
The only thing you need to worry about is taking your medicine...
and writing to me.
The most beautiful letters you'll ever read, Mom.
- Goodbye, my darling. - You'll see.
Bye, sis! Take care!
Juan Martin! Write to me.
Send me postcards.
Enough sentimentality, you're gonna make me cry!
So, just like Don Quixote had Rocinante, San Martin had his mule,
- We have "The Mighty One". - Yeah, which pees oil.
Yeah, she pees oil. What I'm trying to say is that in this very instant,
young Fuser and your servant here,
embark on a journey to the farthest reaches of the human spirit,
Where we will encounter new lands, hear new anthems, eat new fruits...
Granado, I'm holding you resposible.Anything happens to Ernesto, I'm going to hunt you down.
Put on the scarf, honey.
Don't worry, ma'am. He'll come back and be the doctor we all want him to be.
It's time to go!
Watch out! He's crazy!
Animal!
Dear Mom, Buenos Aires is behind us.
Gone is "the wretched life", the uninspiring lectures, the papers and medical exams.
All of Latin America is ahead of us.
From now on we only trust in "The Mighty One".
I wish you could see us! We look like outlaws,
commanding attention everywhere we go...
Slam it, Mial! Put'er into orbit!
- Don't quit on me, Mighty One! - Come on!
- What happened, Mial? - Fucking shit!
I am glad we've left "civilization" behind and are now a bit closer to the land.
Ora siamo piu vicini alla terra
- What's going on? - We're losing our bags!
Motherfucker! Fucking shit!
- Fuser, are you alright? - Yeah, you?
What's up little one? Are you okay?
- What the fuck is that? - What the fuck does it look like?
- A fucking dog! - You're a fucking shitty driver!
Fuck you! What's that fucking dog doing on my bike?
It's for Chichina; his name is "Come-back".
Go on, pick up the bike.
Where the fuck are we, in Switzerland?
- Good day. - Good day.
- Chichina? - She's at the beach with the family.
That bike's not doing so well.
- So, Esteban, tell us about your trip. - It was fantastic, Don Horacio.
I had the opportunity to take a seminar in Cambridge
and spend a couple of weeks in London, a fascinating city.
- Oh, what a privilege. - Yes. A privilege.
Esteban is about to get his doctorate...
- In medicine? - No. In law.
Oh, law...
One, two, three, four, Tango, Fuser!
It's your turn now...
I've never seen a pig who liked to dance. Ever.
- Yeah! - Fuck off.
- With this foot, one... back back ... - What are you laughing at?
- You.
Tonight?
Dad asked Aunt Rosana not to let me out of her sight.
And Mom promised the Virgin that she'd walk to her sanctuary...
if we break up.
Don't your parents realize that the deeper you bury the diamonds,
the more determined the pirate is to take them?
Believe me, this diamond wouldn't mind being taken.
Dance.
Look at them.
Check out La Negra!
Let's check out the bathroom.
Good night.
- Good night, girls. - Good night.
So, Aunt Rosana,
which room do I get?
Get out, Come-back. Scat!
How long did you say we'd be here?
- You know how long. - Two days. And ho long has it been?
Are you gonna use wire in the operating room, too?
Six days, Fuser!
If you stayed we could do many things, Ernesto, but only if you stayed.
That didn't sound so good.
What do you want to hear? That I'll wait for you?
- I told you I'm coming back. - I have the dog to prove it.
Didn't you like him?
What do you want, Ernesto? What do you want to hear?
That I'll wait forever, that I'll wait months on end for you to return?
- What's with you? - What do you want?
What?
I'd like for you to stay like this, silent.
I want to look at you; I won't see you for a long time.
I will wait for you, but don't take forever.
- Define "forever". - Thin ice, mister!
I won't touch you again.
Oh, no, I hurt you. Did I hurt you?
It's a trick. A really bad one!
Okay, lovebirds, it's time to go. Fuser...
Take care, Miss Ferreyra.
Thanks for everything.
On the boat I heard the moist slap of bare feet
and foresaw faces dark with hunger.
My heart was a pendulum between her and the street.
I don't know what strength broke me free from her eyes, loose from her arms.
She remained clouded by tears, her anguish hidden by the rain.
- Is that Lorca? - No.
- Neruda? - No.
- Who? - I don't remember.
Wait, wait... there.
So with Chichina - nothing?
Even after you gave her a pure-bred German Shepherd, nothing?
At least tell me you saw one tit. One little tit.
Ah, you saw her titties then. Alright, my man!
Scalpel.
- American dollars. - Fifteen.
- Chichina? - Yup.
That girl's perfect for you.I've always said so: that is Ernesto's girlfriend. Now we'll be able to eat like kings.
- No. - A succulent protein-filled meal.
She gave me this money in case we make it to the United States.
She asked me to buy her a bathing suit. I said I would.
What? Pretend this money doesn't exist. It's off limits.
He's testing me... I'm gonna kill him.
- Are you talking to the bike again? - What the hell are you thinking?
This girl's got you by the balls!
- Fuser! - Don't get all worked up, fatty.
- Hello. - Good afternoon.
- How's the bike feel? - It's amazing.
You can fix anything with wire. It's riding better than ever.
Goddamn, motherfucking shit!
You alright, Fuser?
Damn curve.
Look at the exhaust pipe! Goddamn it to hell and back!
- Get more stakes! I've run out! - Don't bust my balls! Just grab it!
- You had too choose this spot, asshole! - You're the one that chose it!
- Hold on to that side! - Yo hold on to your side first!
Come on. I just can't!
Come on!
The ground is wet! What the fuck do you want me to do?
- Fucking shit! - No, the river took it! Get it, get it!
It's gone!
Just take it...
- Why don't e go up to that ranch? - With those snobs?
We'll find help down here, among the people, don't you think?
- Should we do the broken headlight thing? - Red October.
- What's Red October? - You have your medical I.D., right?
- Good evening. - Good evening.
What do you want?
It may not look like it, but, well, we're both doctors...
from Buenos Aires and C¨®rdoba, respectively.
We are traveling the length and breadth of the country...
Well, he's got one, too.
We're traveling all over doing some research
with the hope of curing
some of the most terrifying diseases of the twentieth century.
Plagues that not only consume our energies
but also keep Argentina under total dependence.
As a matter of fact, if you read the medical literature, you'll note, as we have...
What the fuck do you bums want?
Look, Sir. The wind took our tent.
We're starving and need a place to sleep.
There's a shed out there with a good floor.
- You can sleep with the migrants. - But we're doctors...
I like your face very much. Yours, fatty, I don't like.
- It's cool. - It's okay.
Dear Mom, We're still going strong,
though "The Mighty One" isn't so mighty anymore.
Money and food are scarce
but we've managed to bum some free food,
thanks to our secret weapon,
Alberto's impeccable bullshitting.
...trying to wipe out some of the most terrifying diseases of the 20th...
So you two are doctors?
Well, no... Alberto is a biochemist and I'm in medical school.
He practically has a degree. We're as good as doctors.
Then I'd like you to look at this lump on my neck.
- Mister... - Von Puttkamer
Hurts?
- It's a tumor. - What do you mean, a tumor?
- You think so? - Yeah.
It looks like an adipose deposit, it could be a cyst.
No. It's a tumor.
It's a tumor in the occipital zone, probably of hydatid origin.
Schatzie, these gentlemen say I have a tumor!
No...good day, ma'am. Honestly, I don't think it's a tumor, it's a sebaceous cyst.
If you'll give us some food and a place to crash, we may be able to treat you.
No, look, we can't treat you. Don't worry, you just need to go to Buenos Aires,
- I can recommend you to a specialist, but-- - We could try to help him.
How? With a couple of herbs from their garden? With prayers?
I see, there's nothing you can do for me.
Yes, we can. If you give us food and a place to sleep--
There's a lake full of fish and a toolshed nearby.
- Sir, it's a very premature diagnosis. - This conversation is over, doctors.
Let's go, Schatzie.
Work with me next time, okay?
Sure, I'll work with you,
but not at the expense of a man's health.
Let's suppose you were right, the geezer had a tumor;
how the fuck do you just tell him like that? Unbelievable!
It's the truth. If he can't take it, that's his problem.
You made him shit his pants, you can't treat a patient like that.
The guy has a tumor, the sooner he deals with it, the better.
It's the proper treatment, or didn't you learn that in pharmacy school?
Look, you asshole, don't talk to me about proper medicine.
You little nurse. Get your degree, then we'll talk.
Fucking know-it-all. Let's look for food.
Duck, duck, duck.
Give me the gun, man! Come on!
- I got it, man! - Very good!
- How did you do that? - Now we're totally fucked.
Well, there is no choice now but to jump in the lake and get our food.
- Fuser, jump in the water and get our food. - You're nuts if you think I'm getting in,
you have any idea how cold it is?
Yeah, I know you're allergic to the cold, the water, the heat and all that...
but, you know what? I'm older, wiser, and I did all the shooting.
It was dumb luck! Besides, I have asthma.
Okay, you're right. If you can't, I'll do it.
- I never said "can't." - "Can't," "won't"...What's the difference?
- I didn't say, "I can't." - Or don't want to, same thing
Otherwise,give me Chichina's dollars, and we'll feast like kings.
Look, if I get that fucking duck, I'll eat it by myself.
Like a duck to water... quack, quack, quack!
- I'm freezing my balls off! - So what? You're not using them.
- Good, Fuser! Good! Bring that ducky with fries... - Is it cold out there?
Hey! You cold? I'm not.
Duck?
- Are you feeling shitty? - No, I feel wonderful.
Fuser, listen to me.
Give me Chichina's fifteen bucks and we'll go to a real hospital.
Ask again, I'll vomit on you.
Dear Mom, what do we leave behind when we cross a frontier?
Each moment seems split in two:
melancholy for what is left behind,
and the excitement of entering a new land.
Look, Mial! Cile.
Cile! Long live Chile!
- First time you've left the country? - Sure thing.
You're practically a man.
Listen, when we're old and tired of traveling,
we should come back and set up a clinic on this lake.
- Huh? - Not a bad idea.
We'd treat everybody; if anybody comes out here...
Count me in, brother.
Things are looking up, Fuser.
- Is that snow piling up? - Nah, that's just a little frost, man.
That's it. I hope the chain doesn't freeze up because we'll be screwed...
- Fuck, it's cold. - Nice little summer we're having...
Hey, you said we'd enter Chile like conquerors, not like a pair of assholes.
Don't like it? Fuck yourself, Ernesto.
Why don't we dump this thing? It's nothing but trouble.
Oh, yeah? And walk the whole continent on foot, genius?
Yes. We'd see more, meet more people...
you could drop some pounds.
Come on, you faggot. With a couple of Chichina's dollars, this is history.
Same old song! Forget that money!
If that's your answer, you go to Venezuela on foot,
just leave me the hell alone and take your boss's money.
I could probably make it there in half the time if you'd mind your own business.
You motherfucker!
Ooh, Ernestito, bring me those Yankee panties, from Miami...
Don't you realize you'll never see her wearing them and she'll never take them off for you asshole!
You know what your problem is, Fuser?
Your fucking honesty.
You cold help out with a little lie once in a while.
Just hold it.
Hey! What are you doing?
- What's up? - Come in!
Thank you.
- Mat¨¦? - yes.
- Thank you very much. - No sugar.
- What is your name? - Teresa.
A souvenir, huh? I'll take it back to Argentina with me.
- Are you traveling? - Yeah, we are.
We're the ones with that beat-up bike out there.
- And what is this? - That's sea bass.
- And these? These are clams, no? - They're clams.
- Just normal clams? - Clams are always clams.
Maybe next time.
The Austral News! The Austral News for only 3 pesos!
News of Chile and the world, the Austral News! Just 3 pesos!
Yesterday afternoon, Temuco was honored by the arrival of two of
the most prestigious leprosy experts in South America.
Dr. Alberto Granados from C¨®rdoba...
- What do you mean "Granados"? - Yeah, that's what it says.
and Dr. Ernesto Guevara de la Serna from Buenos Aires,
have embarked on an epic journey from their native soil to the northern tip of Venezuela.
The charismatic scientists - adventurers, experts in their field,
have treated 3000 patients across the continent.
They expect to complete their marathon-trek
in a record-setting five months,
just in time to celebrate the youthful Dr. Grranados' thirtieth birthday.
- It says "youthful." - Yeah, they lied a bit too.
Think it'll work?
Hello. Good afternoon.
Il mio amico ed io abbiamo...
My friend and I are having problems with our bike. The steering is broken,
the brakes are shot... and the gears are all messed up
My ass is killing me.
Well, the steering, brakes and gears I can fix...
but I'm afraid your ass is outta luck.
And we're broke.
What? You don't have a penny?
We're getting some money in Valpara¨ªso,
- we'll send it to you then. - I have no desrespect in my heart...
but if you have no money you have no business being here.
Forgive me for interrupting, Sir,
but if you help us out now,
you'd be doing incalculable service to bilateral relations among our countries.
- You expect me to fix it for free? - I don't think we are being clear.
We can't assume everyone will know who's who in the Latin American medical field.
- Doctor, if you will. - Yes, of course... as it so happens...
an article came out just today in The Austral... the newspaper.
Allow me.
Look, Piedad
- The picture isn't very good. - Yeah, it's not very flattering.
It's them.
Gentlemen, it would be an honor to fix your motorcycle.
After I finish playing this card game with my wife, of course.
- Of course. - Priority number one!
You know, there's a dance at the City Hall tonight...
and God willing, all the young girls in town will be there.
That's too bad!
- Should I bring the bike in later? - Leave it right here,
we'll fix it up for you.
Allow me...
You know, I was just thinking about you...
Yeah? Why?
You made a strong impression on me from the start.
Thanks.
Do you want to dance?
No... I don't dance.
My husband's fallen asleep; he's drunk.
I have no one to dance with.
Well, if you teach me...
You finally remembered you're a man, huh?
Oh, had you forgotten?
I haven't danced in a long time...
but it's all coming back.
I can't dance anymore.
Do you want to keep dancing?
Wouldn't you like to step out?
- I'd love to. - Yes.
- Yeah, let's go. - Okay, let's go then.
- What's wrong? - Not now!
- Come on, it's okay. - Let me go!
Hey, asshole, the Argentinian is hitting on your wife!
Let me go!
- I'm sorry, excuse me! - You motherfucking Argentinian!
- Are you tired? - No.
- Don't you want to switch? - No.
Are you sure?
Cows!
- Hit the brakes! - What brakes?
- What do you mean? - The brakes are gone!
- You alright? - I'm great! What do you want me to say, Fuser!
Goddamn mechanic!
Is he your dad?
That caw's going blind.
All she's going to see is shit.
We are 25 days behind schedule.
It is rumored that Chilean girls are the most daring in the continent.
Rumors have no scientific value, Dr. Granado.
Time to do some research.
You don't like either of them?
Here they come.
Hi, girls. Excuse us, but this place is packed.
- Can we join you? - Yes.
- Ernesto... - He's Alberto.
- Miss? - Jazm¨ªn
- Daniela. - A pleasure.
A real pleasure.
- Are you two Argentinian? - How'd you know?
Well, because of your accent, because Argentinians always say "che"...
- Had you noticed, Che? - Not at all, Che.
- Do you know what day it is? - February 26.
February 26? Sounds unbelievable, but it's been a year.
A year since what?
One year since we started this trip.
One year and we're flat broke, we can't even celebrate. What a shame.
- Why don't you let us treat you to a bottle of wine? - Wine?
A bottle of wine for our...
courageous Argentine visitors.
Girls, don't be offended, but I can't drink wine.
Why couldn't you drink just a bit?
Exactly... There's an old custom in Argentina...
- No, please don't. - What is it?
- I think they deserve an explanation. - They do.
Thank you, Lucho. An old custom in Argentina
doesn't allow us to drink on an empty stomach.
Since we're flat broke,
we can't buy food
and must reject your generous offer. That's it.
Come on, lighten up. Lucho!
- Lucho, could you bring us some empanadas? - Do you like Chilean empanadas?
- I've never tasted Chilean empanadas. - Four? Eight?
Well... they do look hungry. Twelve.
What a nice number. I've always liked that number.
- Wish we could stay! - Too bad we have nowhere to crash.
We'll sleep out in the park.
Listen... my Dad's fond of Argentinians.
- No joke! - Honest. He might be able to help you.
Since Dad's Chief of the fire brigade, he knows lots of people.
What? You two are sisters?
Of course. Look. Can't you tell?
The mechanic won't be in until tomorrow,
but the bike can stay right here.
Guys! Ca?aco! Come!
I'm going to introduce you to two Argentinian volunteers that will be spending the night here with you.
This is Doctor skinny Che,
and this is Doctor chubby Che.
Why don't we go take in the town?
Good idea, but...
Don't you worry, Sir.
- Excuse me. Sorry! - Hello.
I don't want to bother you, but are you really doctors?
Actually, I'm a biochemist.
- Could you come see a sick woman? - Yes. Whenever you say, just...
Could we do it now? It's been a long time since she's seen a doctor, she's in really bad shape.
Sure. Let me get my things.
Well, one has to remain faithful to the Hippocratic oath...
- Ernesto. - Moncho.
- Poncho? - Moncho.
Look me in the eye.
I'm going to touch your neck.
Has she eaten?
I don't know.
Look, Mrs. Rosa, I'm going to leave these little pills.
Take one with each meal and one before sleeping.
This will help you feel better.
I knew I was powerless to help her, Mom...
This poor old woman who only a month ago waited tables, wheezing like I do,
trying to live with dignity.
In her dying eyes there was a plea for forgiveness
and for solace, now vanished,
just as her body will sonn be lost,
in the great mystery that surrounds us.
Fuser, you still haven't asked about the research I did on our Chilean sisters.
You can't imagine how depressed I am that you're the sexual ambassador of Argentina!
It's true.
Are you the clowns that ride that crippled piece of shit?
Her name is "The Mighty One".
Her name was "The Mighty One". Now she can be baptized. "The Deceased',"The Dearly Departed","The Paraplegic"...
Really? And why's that?
Why? Because I am the mechanic.
You could make a buck selling her for scrap.
Chile is her last stop.
Gonna miss you, girl.
I'll carry yours today. Come on.
What'll we do? Go on?
Of course.
A man turns thirty only once, right?
You're something else, Ernesto de la Serna... I mean, if we spend Chichina's...
Nope! Don't even think it!
There she is, Valpara¨ªso.
"I love Valpara¨ªso,
all you encompass, all you radiate, lover of the ocean,
far from..."
- Federico Garc¨ªa Lorca. - No!!
Neruda!
- From Chichina? - From Chichina. And the money?
- Should I open it? - Go ahead.
I'll leave you lovebirds alone.
I love you so much, Celia de la Serna.
What happened?
- Hey, you ready? - Me?
- Yup. - Of course...
Right away!
You know what? I liked my plan better, Fuser!
You are such an arrogant bastard. You can at least answer me!
What do you wanna do? Go back? Go on, go back!
I'll get to the mine and tell you all about it.
Are you saying I can't make it?
If you can, little asthmatic doctor, then I can.
- Just shut up and walk! - Ball-buster!
Now you wanna beat me?
Stop!
Goddamn it!
Good afternoon, hi.
I'm Ernesto, good to meet you.
Yes. Right there. Home.
We didn't have much, just some tough, dry land.
It belonged to his grandpa.
It was ours. Until a land speculator forced us off.
That's what they call progress.
So we had to leave our son with family and hit the road,
looking for work,
trying to escape from the police who wanted to toss us in jail.
Why?
Because we are communists.
Now we're going to a mine.
If we're lucky, I'll find some work.
It's so dangerous, they don't care what party you belong to.
Are you two looking for work?
No, we're not looking for work.
No? Then why are you traveling?
We travel just to travel.
Bless you...
Blessed be your travels.
- Have a mat¨¦. - Thank you.
Their faces were tragic and haunting.
They told us of comrades who had mysteriously disappeared,
and were said to be somewhere at the bottom of the sea.
It was one of the coldest nights of my life,
but also one which made me feel closer to this strange,
for me anyway, human race.
You! You too.
You, over there.
Not you! The one next to you!
Move it, move it! Get a move on, guys!
You there, you too. Up there!
Move along!
The one in the back. You, too.
Hurry up. Get on the truck.
The rest of you go home!
You two! What are you doing here?
- Nothing, just looking. - Looking at what, asshole?
This is not a tourist attraction, get lost!
Can't you see these people are thirsty? Why don't you give them some water, damn it?
- Get out before I call security and have you locked up, asshole. - Why would they?
Why? Trespassing.
This is property of the Anaconda Mining Company. Watch the door.
You son-of-a-bitch!
As we left Chuquicamata
we could feel the world changing
or was it us?
The deeper we go in the Andes
the more indigenous people we encounter,
who are homeless in their own land.
We finally entered Per¨², thanks to a half-blind truckernamed F¨¦lix.
And guess what? Alberto turned thirty,
but no in Venezuela as he had planned.
We were so tired, Mom, we couldn't celebrate.
This is not humanly possible.
We finally arrived in Cuzco, "the heart of America".
Our first day in the city we met Don N¨¦stor,
an old soul, Mom, and our official guide.
Sir, I wonder, which of these walls is Incan?
This one here is Incan and that one is Spanish. As a joke we say
this wall was made by the Inca, and that wall was made by the In-capables. That's what we call the Spanish.
During the Inca period, Cuzco was the capital.
When the Spanish came they started to trash it all,
- and made Lima the capital. - Lima?
- This is belongs to Jesus Christ Inc. - Are they still in business?
She says she never went to school
because she was always with the livestock,
and that's why she doesn't speak Spanish, only Quechua.
When i was little there was enough, at least I think so,
There was enough money to afford everything.
But now I think there is little money, there is no work.
And this is all affecting us, more and more.
From the time I was little I've worked with handicrafts, and,
that's why I'm not doing too bad,
not too good, just okay.
With both hands, N¨¦stor.
Thank you.